Nailing Eyeshadow When You Have Hooded Eyes
Thu, 11 August 2016 4:55PM
I grew up as a dancer, and everyone would help each other out in the dressing room. I’d braid everyone’s hair and they’d do my makeup – that was the deal. However, no matter who did my makeup there was always one flaw, my eyeshadow usually looked like I’d been in some kind of pub brawl…and lost. Their ‘totally chic’ smokey eye just looked smudgy and messy on my eyes, even though it looked amazing on theirs. What?
I eventually worked out that I am a ‘hooded-eye girl’. A hooded eye is where the mobile lid is narrow as the crease is low on the lid. Sometimes the crease can droop, especially with age, and extend past the end of the eye.
Some of the most beautiful women in Hollywood have hooded eyes including Blake Lively and Jennifer Lawrence. It’s not something that needs to be corrected, and can be quite striking – but it can also make applying eyeshadow difficult. No one wants to look like a panda, even if they are one of the cutest animals around. For those who, like me, have hooded eyes, and deal with the same struggles when it comes to eyeshadow, I am here to spill the beans on how I’ve learnt to nail it.
Create a good base
Apply your foundation so it covers your eyelids, all the way up to the brow. I then use banana powder (super brightening) to set the lids and under eyes. Australis do an amazing one. Basically, you want to create a base that is all one colour, and ready to take your eyeshadow, so your work stands out!
Tackle the crease
Okay, down to business. You need one essential colour, a grey-beige shadow. I am obsessed with MAC’s Omega eyeshadow, you know, the one all the beauty guru’s use for blonde eyebrows. But any grey-beige colour is perfect. The grey tones will create a shadow effect without being too dark, a la panda. For darker skin tones you may need more of a grey-brown. Also, invest in a ‘tapered’ blending brush. It’s essential for this look.
Take the eyeshadow on your blending brush, and tilt your head back so you can see the shape of your eye. Tilting the head will straighten out your natural crease, we are basically pretending that it doesn’t exist for this, ok? Place the brush on your lid where your brow bone ends and eyeball begins and do a ‘windscreen wiper motion’. Be sure to build up the colour enough to create a shadow there, but it should never be harsh. If it seems harsh, dust off any shadow on your brush, and keep ‘windscreen wiping’ until you blend it evenly.
Now you have a fake crease (great success!). The next thing you need to do is simple – follow the rules of highlighting and contouring. We have made a part of our eyelid ‘recede’ into a fake crease, and now we need to make the new (and more spacious) lid stand out with a lighter colour. You can use anything you want, although my favourite is The Balm’s Mary- Lou Manizer because it’s super glittery and adds an extra sass to an otherwise neutral look.
Let’s talk eyeliner and lashes
Tight lining (lining the inner, upper rim of the eye) in a black eye crayon, or using a thin line of liquid eyeliner along the lashes will help define your eyes without looking like you came out of a 90s emo-grunge band, and is key to help give a bit of added lushness to your lashes. Also, investing in a kickass mascara that both volumises and lengthens the lashes is a great finishing step to your look. I personally love Too Faced’s Better Than Sex mascara.
Experimentation and colour
Just because you’ve got hooded eyes doesn’t mean you are chained to a life of beige and cream. Once you have your crease, you can experiment with loads of different lid colours. Sometimes I’ll swipe a shimmery gold like Urban Decay’s ‘Half-Baked’ on the lid, or even a green tone like MAC’s ‘Sumptuous Olive’. I used a foil metallic shadow for Splendour in the Grass and it looked so glam! So experiment with your looks – after all that’s what makeup is about!
YouTuber Stephanie Lange does a super similar routine to mine by the way, you should check it out if you want visuals.
Does this all seem way too time consuming? Like Stephanie, I can now do this in about three minutes every morning, and love how it turns out! Seriously, it’s definitely a ‘practice makes perfect’ thing, but I couldn’t live without this routine now.
Let us know if you’ve tried this out. What do you think? x
Posted by: Cassandra Green